Getting started

Chain saws range from small, light-duty electrics to large gas-powered models intended for forestry work. Prices generally follow power output, which is measured in cubic centimeters of engine displacement for gas saws and by amperage for electric saws.

Chain saws cause 36,000 injuries and 20 deaths each year. Some of the most serious injuries occur when the chain snags and the saw kicks back toward the operator's chest and head. Chain saws now have safeguards designed to eliminate kickback.

But even the safest saws should be used with care. Start with snug-fitting clothing and sturdy work boots, preferably steel-toed. Shield your legs with cut-resistant chaps and the backs of your hands with protective gloves, and wear a helmet with a face shield. All chain saws require hearing protection. Sound levels of the gas saws we tested ranged from about 98 to 105 decibels at the operator's ear. Because they emit 88 to 97 decibels, even the electric saws require hearing protection. All told, that adds up to about $250 in gear, but that equipment could last a lifetime. More important, it could make your lifetime last.

Keeping the cutting chain properly sharpened, tensioned, and oiled speeds cutting and helps to prevent kickback. When starting a gas-powered saw, grip it with both hands and keep both feet firmly on the ground. Don't saw on a ladder or with the saw above your shoulders. Avoid sawing with the tip of the chain and bar, where kickback typically occurs.

Types

The kinds of jobs you plan to do should dictate the type of saw you buy. Expect to pay at least $100 and much more if you need more power. Here are the types of chain saws to consider.

They tend to cut more quickly and smoothly than electrics, and their faster chain speeds require less pressure. But they're heavier and noisier, and they emit exhaust fumes. They need regular tune-ups, and starting the engine usually requires several yanks on a cord.

Most electric saws cost less than gas-powered models. And they start more easily; just plug them in and squeeze the trigger. But their relatively small size limits them to lighter-duty chores, and their power cord keeps you tethered to the nearest electric outlet. Though they're lighter than most gas-powered saws, they made our arms and hands feel more fatigued, possibly because they need more pressure to bite into the wood.

Features

When it comes to chain-saw features, safety is paramount. Next is convenience, and then ease of use. Nearly all saws have a label indicating compliance with voluntary safety standards, including a test for kickback.

Extra guard links on the chain keep the cutting teeth from taking too large a bite. All the saws we tested had a reduced-kickback chain, but some inexpensive chain saws still lack this crucial safety feature.

Most chain saws have a bar with a narrow tip or nose to limit the cutting area that generates most kickback.

This feature stops the chain almost instantly when the front hand guard is pushed forward or when the saw kicks back. All the gas-powered saws and about half of the electrics we tested had a chain brake.

To help prevent kickback, some saws have a steel attachment that covers the nose of the bar to prevent the tip of the chain from snagging. The nose guard is a good idea if you keep it on the saw. But a tip guard shortens the usable length of a bar by about 1 1/2 inches. We have spoken to many users of chain saws, including professionals, who admit that the first thing they do is remove the guard because it gets in the way of cutting. We think that's a bad idea.

This metal extension beneath the guide bar keeps a thrown chain from flying back toward the user. All the models we tested had it.

To prevent accidental engagement, the throttle trigger won't work until you depress a separate palm switch or button. All the saws we tested had that feature.

Most mufflers on gas-powered saws are covered so that you can't touch them inadvertently.

About half the saws we tested came with either a full case or a cover for the guide bar and chain. That can protect you from the sharp cutting teeth when you carry or store the saw. If your saw lacks a case or cover, you can buy an aftermarket one.

All the gas-powered saws and most of the electrics we tested have a wraparound handle that provides a comfortable grip and eases horizontal cutting, as when you cut down a tree.

We consider this a must-have device. It lets you keep cutting without having to stop and manually pump a plunger to oil the cutting bar. It also lets you keep both hands firmly on the saw while you cut. All the gas saws and most of the electrics we tested had an automatic oiler.

These sharp spikes near the base of the bar bite into logs and serve as a fulcrum, letting you pivot the bar and chain downward while cutting logs in a sawbuck or log stand. Many saws have this feature.

A hand-operated wheel-and-crank mechanism conveniently unlocks and locks the chain bar and moves it in and out so you can adjust chain tension without loosening the adjustment nuts or turning the adjustment screws.

A translucent tank or viewing strip lets you check the chain oil level at a glance.

Most gas models have rubber bushings or metal springs between the handle and the engine, bar, and chain to minimize vibration. Without that feature, vibration can make sawing uncomfortable even for short periods.