Getting started

Maybe you're one of the millions of viewers who became hooked on the Bravo TV series "Project Runway." Or maybe you haven't cut into a piece of fabric since junior high school but would like to get back into making your own clothes. If so, you might be surprised by how feature-laden the current generation of sewing machines has become. This sewing machine guide will help you choose.

If you remember an old Singer machine in your house, you might be surprised by the new machines on the market. Our current testing features sewing machines that can recommend the proper presser foot, determine the right thread tension and stitch length, size and sew a buttonhole, and automatically cut the thread.

The best sewing machine for you depends on your skill level and budget. Before buying a sewing machine, assess your needs and skills. Consider, too, how you might use the machine when your skills improve (independent shops might offer you a free tutorial; many also have low-priced classes). Typically, people keep a sewing machine for at least 10 years.

Singer, Brother, and Kenmore are the top-selling sewing machines, but brands such as Bernina and Husqvarna Viking are gaining in popularity. (Singer, Husqvarna, and Pfaff are currently owned by the same company.) Choose your retailer wisely. Different retail channels offer different advantages. Stores such as Sears often have sales, but if the machine needs repairs, it might have to be sent to a central repair shop where the wait can be weeks. Retailers like Walmart, Kmart, and Target do not do repairs. An independent shop might not have the lowest prices but it usually offers more personalized service; repairs can often be done in the store, sometimes even on the spot. Note that some models are only sold at authorized dealers (usually independent stores), that offer instructional classes and repairs.

Look for sales (stores typically discount sewing machines around Christmas and Mother's Day) and try before you buy. Test out several machines on a variety of fabrics and settings to make sure that they stitch evenly and are easy to use.

When you sew, be sure to use the right needle. A dull one, or the wrong kind, can bend and damage the fabric and/or machine. Change your needles after every project or when switching fabric types. And at least every two years (more if you sew a lot), take your sewing machine in for a tune-up.

Types

The basic function of a sewing machine is to make a uniform, running stitch entwining two sources of thread. But a lot has changed since the days of the iconic black sewing machine. Mechanical models are still around and workmanlike but more skilled sewers can take advantage of newer types of sewing machines, including electronic and embroidery/sewing models.

If you're an occasional sewer or on a budget, this type should work fine. They require you to manipulate most controls by hand and can handle the basics: repairs, hems, simple clothing, and crafts projects.

If you sew frequently or can spend more for an automated machine, an electronic model might be a worthwhile investment. These shift many tedious sewing jobs from your hands to computer chips. A typical unit offers touchpad controls, an LED screen, an array of presser feet for challenges such as piping and topstitching, and settings for dozens or even hundreds of stitch types.

In addition to all of the features and options found in an elaborate electronic machine, you'll also have the ability to do monogramming and embroidery for projects such as garments, bags, bedspreads, and pillowcases.

The machine holds a hoop under its needles and moves the hoop in all four directions as the needle sews. You start by stretching fabric over a hoop. Then, secure the hoop under the needle. Designs are built into the machine's memory, or purchased on memory cards or CDs or linked from your home PC. A touch screen or computer link lets you position the design and specify colors for design elements. Often machines let you resize, reposition and mirror designs and sound an alert to let you know when to change colors.

Features

Even the most basic machine should be able to handle a variety of fabrics, from satin to denim and corduroy, without stretching or puckering the fabric or producing loose, loopy stitches. Here are a number of sewing machine features to consider. But don't pay for those that you aren't likely to use.

The machine should be responsive to pressure on the foot pedal, and not stall or growl when sewing thick fabric or multiple layers. The controls should be easy to reach and manipulate, and the symbols on the machine or LED display should be easy to read. Models that have more room to the right of the needle provide more space for fabric and your hands.

If you'll be storing the machine in a closet and hauling it out when you want to sew, look for a machine that's easy to lift and has a handle on top.

This is a device that pulls the thread through the eye of the needle and saves you from squinting and pricking your finger.

Unlike older machines, in which you had to thread the bobbin in a recessed compartment, many machines now allow you to simply slide open a panel and drop the bobbin in. A clear cover lets you see when thread is running low.

Sews a buttonhole in one step so you don't need to stop and turn the fabric or manipulate a dial. Some machines allow you to insert the button into a slot so that the machine will sew a buttonhole to fit.

Lets you determine the pace at which fabric is fed through the machine, enabling you to sew at a nice, steady tempo rather than stopping and starting.

Regulates how tightly the machine holds the fabric while you sew. This prevents puckering in fine fabrics and stretching in knits.

Some machines allow you to drop the toothy mechanism below the sewing surface to do free-style embroidery or darning.

This feature allows you to choose to have the needle up or down when you stop. Needle down makes is easy to lift the pressure foot and turn a corner without a jump stitch.

This allows you to change how "tight" the thread is that's fed through. Too-tight thread can result in puckered fabric; if it's too loose, you get loopy stitches.