Getting Started

Buying a TV involves many choices, some of which may be brand new to you. This TV buying guide organizes the process into clear, logical steps that will help you make a smart decision.

Of course, your budget will affect all of your decisions. It's possible to find good TVs selling for a few hundred dollars, while others go for several thousand, and there are many sets that fall in between those extremes. Screen size, features, brands, and more affect the price. We can help you to get the most bang for your buck, no matter how much or how little you want to spend.

If you're like most buyers, you've probably settled on a slim, flat-panel TV, but you might not know whether to buy an LCD or plasma set. Though they look very similar on the outside, they use different technologies and the pictures have different characteristics. While LCDs outsell plasmas by a wide margin, don't automatically assume LCDs are the way to go-plasma TVs have a lot to recommend them, especially in certain circumstances.

It's likely that you have a general idea of the screen size you want, but you might be torn between a 42-inch set and a 50-inch for your family room or a 26-inch and 32-inch screen for your bedroom. We can offer advice to help you make that decision.

Then there's the issue of resolution, meaning the number of pixels, or picture elements, a screen contains. Should you buy a 720p TV, or is it worth paying more for a 1080p "full HD" model? That depends on several factors, as we'll outline.

Other considerations include features and brand. We'll lead you through those choices and more, helping you to make the best choice for your specific needs and preferences.

Once you're in a store or shopping online, you'll have to judge the picture quality and decide whether to buy an extended warranty, how much to spend on cables, how to get the best price, and more. Our shopping tips will make you a savvy consumer and help you to save money and avoid hassles. What you'll watch on your new TV is an issue that will affect your enjoyment of your set, so you might be thinking of upgrading your TV service or switching to a new provider. See what cable, satellite, and phone companies have to offer before making a decision.

Types

High-definition (HD) TVs come in all shapes and sizes. The majority of sets now available are flat-panel LCD displays and plasma TVs that can be mounted on a wall or placed on a stand. Rear-projection sets and the familiar picture-tube TVs are becoming much less common.

Good choice if you want a thin, lightweight TV that comes in a wide range of sizes and is well-suited for viewing in a bright room.

Common screen sizes. 23 to 55 inches. Manufacturers have showcased sets larger than 100 inches. No matter how large the screen, most LCD TVs are only 4 or 5 inches thick, and some new ultra-slim sets are even thinner.

Typical selling prices. About $500 to $1,000 for a 32-inch model, $650 to $1,200 for a 37-inch set, $800 to $1,800 for a 40- to 42-inch set, $1,000 to $3,000 for a 46- to 47-inch set, and $1,500 to $4,000 for a 52-inch set.

Thin and light. Most LCD TVs with screens up to 40 inches or so weigh less than 50 pounds. Can be wall-mounted. LCDs tend to be brighter than plasma screens, and reflections and glare are much less of an issue, so an LCD TV is a good choice for brightly lighted rooms. There's also a wide selection of 1080p LCD TV sets. There's no risk of burn-in of static images. LCDs use somewhat less power than plasma sets. Our reliability data show that most major brands have had a very low rate of repairs in the first few years.

LCD TVs haven't caught up with plasma TVs in terms of viewing angle and the ability to display the deepest blacks. On most LCD sets, the image can lose contrast, look washed out, or lose color accuracy as you angle away from the center of the screen. Most LCD TVs can't display deepest black, and fast-moving images might blur. But the best new sets-typically higher-priced models-have less difficulty in those areas than in the past. Uneven backlight brightness has been an issue with LCD TVs, but the use of LED backlighting instead of fluorescent lights in some new sets potentially enables them to more evenly distribute light across the back of the panel for more consistent brightness on all parts of the screen. LEDs also use less energy than conventional backlights.

Good choice if you want a thin TV with a screen 42 inches or larger.

Common screen sizes. 42 to 58 inches, with more 60-inch-plus models arriving.

Typical selling prices. $800 to $1,500 for a 42-inch set, $1,000 to $4,000 for a 50-inch model, $2,600 to $4,500 for a 58-inch set, $3,400 to $6,500 for a 60-inch model. Most models are 6 inches or less in depth, and some new ultra-slim plasma TVs are even thinner.

It's hard to beat the best plasma TV sets for accurate colors, deep blacks, and great contrast. And a virtually unlimited viewing angle means no one in the room has a bad view. For screens 50 inches and larger, plasma TVs cost less than similarly sized LCD models. You'll find many more 1080p sets than last year. Our reliability data show that most major brands have had a very low rate of repairs in the first few years.

Plasma TVs are fairly heavy. Some 42-inch sets weigh about 100 pounds, though others are 20 or 30 pounds lighter. The reflections from a plasma TV's shiny screen (similar to what you might have seen with a picture-tube TV) can be annoying in a bright room, though an antireflective coating can minimize them. Static images displayed for extended periods-such as stock tickers or video games-can burn in temporarily, and could become permanent if you consistently leave the same pattern onscreen over a long period. But that seems to have been more of a problem with earlier plasma TVs. Screensaver-type features on new plasmas greatly minimize the likelihood of burn-in. In our tests, we've seen temporary impressions that have disappeared after a short while; we haven't seen any evidence of permanent burn-in in normal home use.

Good choice if you want a small, low-priced standard-definition TV, but increasingly hard to find.

Common screen sizes. Most models are 13 to 27 inches.

Typical selling prices. About $300 for a 27-inch digital SDTV. Less than $200 for a 20-inch digital set.

Modestly priced. According to many years of reliability data, most picture-tube TVs have had a very low rate of repairs.

Picture-tube TVs are heavy and bulky. Limited selection of screen sizes and brands, now that most major brands have stopped making tube sets. Many retailers have greatly reduced or eliminated their inventory of such sets.

Good choice if you want the most screen for the money, but increasingly hard to find. Only Mitsubishi continues to produce new sets, and no new models were announced for 2009.

Common screen sizes. 50 to 73 inches.

Typical selling prices. $1,000 to $2,000 for a 50-inch microdisplay DLP set, $1,200 to $1,600 for a 56- to 61-inch model; $2,100 to $4,600 for a 65- to 73-inch model.

The top rear-projection TVs offer exceptionally good picture quality, and most have 1080p resolution. A few sets have 3D capability, an innovative feature. A few sets use LED backlights, which are designed to last much longer than conventional lights.

Only Mitsubishi continued to make rear-projection TVs, though Samsung will sell existing inventory for a period of time. That greatly reduces the number of choices available. With most DLP sets, you might be bothered by the "rainbow effect"-a flash of color some viewers see when moving their eyes across the edges of bright objects on a dark background. LED backlights are designed to reduce that problem. Conventional bulbs ($200 to $400 each) used in microdisplay rear-projection TVs require periodic replacement. Manufacturers claim that life for bulbs is about 5,000 hours, though some new bulbs are guaranteed for five years. Our surveys show that microdisplays have needed more repairs than flat panels in the first three years, but the majority of microdisplays have been trouble free.

Good choice if you want a theater-like experience at home, with the largest picture available.

Common screen sizes. The projector has a 9x12-inch or larger footprint. You must buy a screen (typically 70 to 200 inches) separately.

Typical selling prices. $1,000 and up for an HD projector; several hundred dollars for the projection screen.

A big, beautiful picture that can be adjusted to a wide range of sizes by adjusting the zoom control or moving the projector closer to or farther from the screen. Top models produce excellent images. More 1080p units are coming out at lower prices. Projectors and screens can be stored when not in use.

Projectors generally don't include a TV tuner or speakers, so you must add both. You need a dark room to enjoy good picture quality, so projectors are not practical for daytime viewing. Might be better for occasional movie nights than for everyday use. Finding the optimal position for the projector and screen in a furnished room can be tricky. Most single-chip DLP units are subject to the "rainbow effect"-a flash of color some viewers see when their eyes move along the edges of bright objects on a dark background. Bulbs must be replaced every 2,000 to 3,000 hours (claimed life), and cost $350 or more. We have no data on reliability.

Other important considerations in choosing a TV are screen size and resolution.

Deciding what size TV to buy is one of the more enjoyable aspects of buying a new set. Most consumers tend to go bigger when replacing their old TV, and there's a good reason to do so with high-definition programming. A big screen makes HD content especially compelling, creating more of a theater experience. It also enables you to fully appreciate the fine, sharp detail.

Another major decision point involves a TV's native screen resolution, which indicates the number of pixels, or picture elements, on the screen. The more pixels, the finer the detail a screen can display. The terms 1080p and 720p identify the native screen resolution of a TV. That indicates the level of detail it can display, one attribute that can affect overall picture quality.

Features

Features can help to ensure your satisfaction with a TV long after you park it in your living room. Many features, such as the inputs and outputs, are common to all TV types, while some are relevant only to a particular type of TV; that's indicated below. Here are some of the more important TV features to consider.

One of the most critical considerations with any TV is the number and type of inputs it has for hooking up devices to your TV. Most new TVs have two component-video and at least two HDMI inputs, which should be adequate for most current uses; you might want more of those HD-capable inputs to future-proof your set. Both types are capable of carrying high-definition signals from devices such as cable and satellite boxes and DVRs. You can use the RF (antenna/cable) input to feed high-def TV signals, either from an off-air antenna to a set with an ATSC tuner or from a cable to a set with a QAM tuner. S-video and composite-video inputs are generally used for connecting older gear such as a VCR or sometimes a DVD player. If you want to hook up a videogame system or digital camcorder occasionally, look for a TV with front- or side-panel inputs, which are more accessible than those on the rear of the set. (See Video connections for more information.)

Most widescreen (16:9) sets have stretch and zoom modes that expand or compress an image to fill the screen better. That helps to reduce or eliminate the dark bands that can appear on the sides or top and bottom of images if you watch content that isn't formatted for a wide screen, including most standard-definition TV programs and even some HD content. The tradeoff is that the picture is distorted or cut off a bit in the process of being stretched or zoomed.

This improves the appearance of movies converted from film to video. That includes most theatrical releases on DVD and many movies shown on TV. This feature (also called 3:2 pull-down, motion compensation, or brand-specific names such as CineMotion and Film Mode) helps to compensate for the difference in frame rates between film (24 frames per second) and video (30 frames per second), which can create jerkiness and jagged edges on moving images. Since most TVs and progressive-scan DVD players also have a film-mode feature, experiment to see which device does the best job of making the images look smoother.

All TVs have menus with settings that enable you to adjust the picture, sound, and more. Since most TVs are sold with their settings optimized for retail showrooms rather than homes, we suggest adjusting the TV's settings once you get home to get the best viewing experience. Many TVs have pre-set picture modes that are already optimized for certain types of content (such as movies, sports, or games); other TVs require you to make adjustments one by one. With more sources for video available all the time, it's handy to have a feature that allows you to customize settings for each input, such as the one you routinely use for your cable box or the DVD player. For example, you might want sharpness set to its lowest level when watching high-quality DVDs routed through the HDMI input, but a higher sharpness setting to improve the appearance of standard-definition programs coming in through the component-video input. (For more information, see Fine-tuning your HDTV.)

Available on a small number of TVs, a CableCard slot lets you use a card, rented to you by the cable company for a few dollars a month, instead of a cable box. When the card is inserted, the TV can receive scrambled digital-cable content, including high-definition programming. That eliminates the need for an extra piece of equipment and cables, but there is a downside: Most current CableCards are one-way, so they don't provide an interactive program guide or video-on-demand, and pay-per-view ordering via the remote control. The first two-way cards are starting to show up on a few sets.

This lets you watch two channels at once--one in a small window, the other as a full-screen image. It's useful if you want to browse the onscreen guide while keeping an eye on the program you're watching or keep track of a sports event while another program is playing. A single-tuner TV requires another device, such as a DVD recorder, DVR or cable box, to display two programs at once; dual-tuner TV models are able to display two programs simultaneously on their own. On some TVs, PIP is disabled when the HDMI input is used.

Some remotes use some type of illumination--either backlighted keys or glow-in-the dark keys--to make it easier to use in a darkened room. Backlighting is preferred, since glow-in-the-dark keys fade quickly. In some cases, only a few of the most-used keys are illuminated.

Most TVs include built-in speakers; monitors, which don't include an ATSC tuner (see below), often don't come with speakers. Front projectors generally don't include speakers either. On most sets, speakers are built-in at the bottom of a TV, along the sides, or occasionally on the rear of the set. Some models have detachable speakers, allowing you to remove them and place them elsewhere. The location of the speakers can affect the width of the set and could determine whether it will fit into a niche in an entertainment center. A recent trend with flat-panel TVs has been toward "invisible" speakers that are integrated within the screen bezel and barely visible to the eye. Some TVs have audio outputs that will allow you to connect external speakers or a powered subwoofer.

Since March 2007, all new TVs imported into the U.S. (or shipped across state lines) have been required to include a digital (ATSC) tuner. That enables them to receive free digital TV signals, including high-def programming, via an over-the-air antenna. You'll need such a tuner to receive any broadcast TV at all starting June 12, 2009, when all TV stations will discontinue transmitting analog signals. Some stations may discontinue analog broadcasts sooner.

This helps to reduce a problem that affects most LCD TVs: a tendency to blur during scenes with fast motion, such as sports programs. That's because LCD response times (how long it takes for the TV to "refresh" its picture) have typically been slower than that of other TV technologies. To address this, some new sets display double the number of frames per second--120 or 240 rather than the typical 60--by inserting additional video frames (or black frames). Because there is less time between frames, motion appears smoother. Many companies are giving this technology proprietary names; Sony, for example, calls it Motionflow and JVC's is dubbed Clear Motion Drive.

Screen reflectivity and burn-in have been two issues affecting plasma TVs. Like old-fashioned picture-tube TVs, which have reflective glass screens, most plasma TVs have shiny screens that show reflections from windows and lamps, most noticeably in brightly lighted rooms. A few LCD TVs have shiny screens too. If you weren't bothered by reflections on a tube set, this shouldn't be a major issue for you. Some plasma sets have screens with anti-glare surfaces, which can help to reduce reflectivity.

Many plasma TVs now also come with features to prevent burn-in, such as screensavers and motion-adaptive (also called pixel-shifting) technology, which shifts the picture almost imperceptibly every few seconds. This helps prevent static images such as a station logo or the bars on the sides of an image from permanently etching into the TV's phosphor coating, leaving faint but persistent, ghostlike images on the screen. Burn-in might have been more of a problem with earlier plasma sets. We haven't seen any evidence of burn-in when testing TVs in our labs for a few months, and we have heard no anecdotal reports of permanent burn-in from staffers or readers who have used plasma TVs long-term at home. Temporary image sticking is more likely to occur. In this case, static images that remain on the screen for a matter of hours--or on a few sets we've seen, in minutes--may leave a subtle impression that's noticeable on a black screen, though hard to detect with typical video. These impressions disappear when you play random video scenes. Some models include a feature that essentially blasts the screen with a white image for a period of time to remove ghosting images.

Front projectors, which project an image onto a screen or wall, also have some unique features. One, called keystone correction, helps the image retain its proper geometry when you tilt the projector up or down to raise or lower the image on the screen. Though this can help you center the image, tilting the projector can cause the sides of the image to angle away from 90 degrees, resulting in keystoning, or an image that looks like a trapezoid rather than a rectangle. Most projectors have some form of keystone correction--vertical, horizontal, or both--that can correct for this distortion. But using this feature can cause resolution to suffer, depending on the amount of correction applied to the image.

To avoid having to use a keystone adjustment, many projectors include an optical lens-shift mechanism, which lets you move the image horizontally or vertically without tilting the projector so you can get a straight, geometrically correct picture even if the projector can't be centered directly in front of the screen. Some projectors have a vertical lens shift, others have both vertical and horizontal lens shift, and still others--primarily lower-cost DLP models--don't have any lens shift at all, which can make projector placement more difficult.

To help improve the depth of black levels, many projectors include a manual or dynamic iris, which acts as a brightness adjustment by varying (typically reducing) the amount of light sent to the lens. While a manual iris lets you reduce overall light output to improve black-level performance, it applies that light reduction across the entire picture, so whites won't be quite as bright. A dynamic iris, which is controlled by a motor, has circuitry that closes the iris during darker scenes and opens it up again for brighter scenes, effectively boosting contrast. It must be able to react accurately and quickly or the process will be noticeable, an effect known as "breathing", in which you become aware that the feature is active as you see the image brightening and dimming on scenes.