Getting started

Buying a TV involves many choices, some of which may be brand new to you. This TV buying guide organizes the process into clear, logical steps that will help you make a smart decision.

Of course, your budget will affect all of your decisions. It's possible to find good TVs selling for a few hundred dollars, while others go for several thousand, and there are many sets that fall in between those extremes. Screen size, features, brands, and more affect the price. We can help you get the most bang for your buck, no matter how much or how little you want to spend.

If you're like most buyers, you've probably settled on a slim flat-panel TV, but you might not know whether to buy an

LCD or plasma set. Though they look very similar on the outside, they use different technologies and the pictures have different characteristics. While LCDs outsell plasmas by a wide margin--in part because plasma sets are available only in screen sizes 42 inches and larger--don't automatically assume that LCDs are the way to go. It's worth considering both types. Flat panels have largely pushed rear-projection and picture-tube TVs to the sidelines; few of those sets are now being introduced or stocked by retailers. Front projectors are a great choice for home theaters but less practical for everyday use.

set. Though they look very similar on the outside, they use different technologies and the pictures have different characteristics. While LCDs outsell plasmas by a wide margin--in part because plasma sets are available only in screen sizes 42 inches and larger--don't automatically assume that LCDs are the way to go. It's worth considering both types. Flat panels have largely pushed rear-projection and picture-tube TVs to the sidelines; few of those sets are now being introduced or stocked by retailers. Front projectors are a great choice for home theaters but less practical for everyday use.

Deciding what size TV to buy is one of the more enjoyable aspects of buying a new set. Most consumers tend to go bigger when replacing their old TV, because it enables them to fully appreciate the fine, sharp detail of HD content, making it more compelling and creating more of a theater experience. Note that you can't compare the screen size of a conventional squarish tube TV with a widescreen, so don't think a move from a 27-inch tube set to a 32-inch widescreen will give you an appreciably bigger picture. It won't; content will be perceived as the same size, though wider.

For the most part, we recommend at least a 37-inch screen for a primary TV that you'll watch often. We believe that most consumers would be happier with a 40-to-42-inch TV, budget and room size permitting, and a 46-inch or bigger set is often preferable. Screens of about 26 to 32 inches are good for casual viewing in bedrooms, and even smaller screen sizes suit kitchens.

Remember to factor in viewing distance when deciding how big a screen will work in your room. TV pictures tends to look better and more natural if you can sit at least 5 feet from a 40-to-47-inch set displaying good-quality HD content and a minimum of 6 feet from a 50-inch or larger TV. With less distance, you might notice the picture elements (pixels) that make up the images (sometimes referred to as the "screen-door effect"), graininess, or video noise--what you might consider "snow" or specks. If you watch mostly standard-definition programming, which is less detailed and often lower quality, allow more distance between you and the TV.

Resolution means the number of pixels, or picture elements, a screen contains. A 720p set displays 1024x768, 1280x720, or 1366x768 pixels. A set with 1080p resolution, sometimes advertised as "full HD," displays 1920x1080 pixels. The first number in each case indicates the number of pixels going across the screen from left to right; the second number is the number of pixels from the top of the screen to the bottom. That second number is often used as shorthand to describe the set's resolution, e.g., a 1080p screen has 1,080 pixels from top to bottom. Most new LCD and plasma TVs with screens 40 inches and up now have 1080p resolution, and the price difference between 720p and 1080p sets is shrinking.

A 1080p set has the potential to display finer detail than a 720p set, but resolution alone doesn't determine picture quality. Factors such as brightness, contrast, and color also come into play. You can best appreciate the finer detail of a 1080p screen on a 50-inch or larger TV, though you might see subtle improvements on a 40-to-47-inch screen, especially when viewed up close. In smaller sizes, the benefits of 1080p are less obvious. One exception: If you plan to use your TV as a computer display, 1080p resolution is a plus. The higher resolution will let you see more content onscreen with greater clarity and finer detail than you would on a 720p set. (You might have to connect your computer to the TV with an HDMI input to take full advantage of the 1080p resolution and to avoid cutting off outer edges of the image--otherwise known as overscan.)

What you're watching matters too. To fully enjoy the benefits of a 1080p TV, you need top-quality high-def content. You can get that from a Blu-ray disc, which contains true 1080p content. A 1080p set will convert current HD signal formats (720p and 1080i) to match its native screen resolution. If the quality of the programming is good and the TV does the job well, the picture quality can be outstanding. In fact, most 1080p HD sets can derive true 1080p performance from most film-based movies. But the quality of HD content varies considerably (especially on cable), so it might not fully exploit the potential of a 1080p display.

Other considerations include features and brand. We'll lead you through those choices and more, helping you to make the best choice for your specific needs and preferences.

Once you're in a store or shopping online, you'll have to decide whether to buy an extended warranty, how much to spend on cables, how to get the best price, and more. Our shopping tips will make you a savvy consumer and help you to save money and avoid hassles. What you'll watch on your new TV is an issue that will affect your enjoyment of your set, so you might be thinking of upgrading your TV service or switching to a new provider. See what

cable, satellite, and phone companies have to offer before making a decision.

have to offer before making a decision.

Types

The majority of HD sets now available are flat-panel LCD displays and plasma TVs that can be mounted on a wall or placed on a stand. You may see some models advertised as "LED TVs." These are actually LCD sets that use LED backlights, not a whole new type of TV. They're covered within LCDs, below. 3D TVs are LCD or plasma sets that have a 3D mode; that capability is covered in the Features section. Rear-projection sets and the familiar picture-tube TVs are becoming much less common. With few new models being introduced, we no longer test sets in those two categories.

Good choice if you want a thin, lightweight TV that comes in a wide range of sizes and is well suited for viewing in a bright room.

want a thin, lightweight TV that comes in a wide range of sizes and is well suited for viewing in a bright room.

Common screen sizes. 15 to 60 inches. Manufacturers have showcased sets larger than 100 inches. No matter how large the screen, most LCD TVs are only 2 or 3 inches thick, and some new ultra-slim sets are even thinner.

15 to 60 inches. Manufacturers have showcased sets larger than 100 inches. No matter how large the screen, most LCD TVs are only 2 or 3 inches thick, and some new ultra-slim sets are even thinner.

Typical selling prices. About $350 to $800 for a 32-inch model, $500 to $900 for a 37-inch set, $600 to $1,400 for a 40-to-42-inch set, $700 to $2,600 for a 46-to-47-inch set, and $1,300 to $3,000 for a 52-inch set. (With prices continually dropping and special promotions, you'll probably see some TVs selling for less than the prices indicated.)

About $350 to $800 for a 32-inch model, $500 to $900 for a 37-inch set, $600 to $1,400 for a 40-to-42-inch set, $700 to $2,600 for a 46-to-47-inch set, and $1,300 to $3,000 for a 52-inch set. (With prices continually dropping and special promotions, you'll probably see some TVs selling for less than the prices indicated.)

Key points. There are many more companies selling LCD than plasma TVs, and in a wider range of sizes. LCD televisions generally cost more than comparably sized plasma sets, but the gap is narrowing. Many LCD sets with 40-inch or larger screens (and some smaller models) have 1080p resolution. Many newer LCD TVs use LED backlighting instead of the more typical fluorescent backlight. These sets have been among the most energy-efficient we've tested.

. There are many more companies selling LCD than plasma TVs, and in a wider range of sizes. LCD televisions generally cost more than comparably sized plasma sets, but the gap is narrowing. Many LCD sets with 40-inch or larger screens (and some smaller models) have 1080p resolution. Many newer LCD TVs use LED backlighting instead of the more typical fluorescent backlight. These sets have been among the most energy-efficient we've tested.

LCDs tend to be brighter than plasma screens, and some have matte screens that don't suffer from reflections and glare, making them a good choice for brightly lit rooms. But we are seeing many more LCD sets with glossy screens, which are more reflective. With LCD TVs, there's no risk of burn-in of static images, which can be a concern with plasma TVs, although it is less of a problem than it was in the past.

Advances in technology have also addressed problems that have plagued LCD technology. LCD TVs have had trouble displaying deep blacks, a problem caused partly by backlighting leaking through in dark scenes. Some new models have minimized this problem by using full-frame LED backlights (instead of fluorescents) and so-called local-dimming technology. The backlight can be dimmed behind a dark scene, enhancing the depth of black, while remaining bright elsewhere. TVs with edge-lit LED backlights around the perimeter of the screen typically don't offer local dimming, but a few of the newest models do. Edge LEDs can allow for extremely thin profiles. Models with LEDs also use less power than typical TVs; some we've tested were exceptionally frugal with energy. Recent developments have also improved LCD TVs' ability to display fast-moving scenes without blurring. A growing number of sets now use 120Hz and 240Hz technology, or quasi-240Hz (120Hz plus a scanning backlight), an increase from the usual 60Hz refresh rates, to reduce motion blur.

But LCD TVs haven't caught up with plasma TVs in terms of viewing angle. With most LCD sets, the picture looks its best only from a fairly narrow sweet spot right in front of the screen. As you angle away from the center of the screen--either horizontally or vertically--the image can dim, lose contrast, look washed out, or lose color accuracy. So if you're sitting off to the side (say, at the end of a long couch), stretched out on the floor, or looking up at a TV over the mantel, you could very well be seeing less-than-optimal picture quality.

Good choice if you want a thin TV with a screen 42 inches or larger with an almost unlimited viewing angle.

you want a thin TV with a screen 42 inches or larger with an almost unlimited viewing angle.

Common screen sizes. 42 to 58 inches, with more 60-inch-plus models arriving. Most models are 4 inches or less in depth, and some new ultra-slim plasma TVs are as thin as an inch.

42 to 58 inches, with more 60-inch-plus models arriving. Most models are 4 inches or less in depth, and some new ultra-slim plasma TVs are as thin as an inch.

Typical selling prices. $500 to $1,000 for a 42-inch set, $700 to $2,500 for a 50-inch model, $1,500 to $2,800 for a 58-inch set, $2,000 to $4,200 for a 60- to-65-inch model. (With prices continually dropping and special promotions, you'll probably see some TVs selling for less than the prices indicated.)

$500 to $1,000 for a 42-inch set, $700 to $2,500 for a 50-inch model, $1,500 to $2,800 for a 58-inch set, $2,000 to $4,200 for a 60- to-65-inch model. (With prices continually dropping and special promotions, you'll probably see some TVs selling for less than the prices indicated.)

Key points. You'll find more sizes, including 46-inch and 54-inch models, as manufacturers try to compete more directly with LCD sets. There are also many more 1080p sets than in the past, including 42-inch models. It's hard to beat the best plasma TV sets for accurate colors, deep blacks, and great contrast. And a virtually unlimited viewing angle means that no one has a bad view, because you see the same picture quality from almost anywhere in a room.

You'll find more sizes, including 46-inch and 54-inch models, as manufacturers try to compete more directly with LCD sets. There are also many more 1080p sets than in the past, including 42-inch models. It's hard to beat the best plasma TV sets for accurate colors, deep blacks, and great contrast. And a virtually unlimited viewing angle means that no one has a bad view, because you see the same picture quality from almost anywhere in a room.

New plasmas use much less energy than older models and in general are comparable to typical LCDs for

power consumption. But some of the biggest sets do consume more power than most models, especially when compared to LED-lit LCDs, which tend to be very energy-efficient. The reflections from a plasma TV's shiny screen can be annoying in a bright room, though an antireflective coating can minimize them. In this respect, they're similar to what you might have seen with a picture-tube TV, or with LCD sets with glossy screens. Static images displayed for extended periods--such as stock tickers or video games--can burn in temporarily, and could become permanent if you consistently leave the same pattern onscreen over a long period. But that seems to have been more of a problem with earlier plasma TVs. Screensaver-type features on new plasmas greatly minimize the likelihood of burn-in. In our tests, we've seen temporary impressions that have disappeared after a short while; we haven't seen any evidence of permanent burn-in in normal home use.

. But some of the biggest sets do consume more power than most models, especially when compared to LED-lit LCDs, which tend to be very energy-efficient. The reflections from a plasma TV's shiny screen can be annoying in a bright room, though an antireflective coating can minimize them. In this respect, they're similar to what you might have seen with a picture-tube TV, or with LCD sets with glossy screens. Static images displayed for extended periods--such as stock tickers or video games--can burn in temporarily, and could become permanent if you consistently leave the same pattern onscreen over a long period. But that seems to have been more of a problem with earlier plasma TVs. Screensaver-type features on new plasmas greatly minimize the likelihood of burn-in. In our tests, we've seen temporary impressions that have disappeared after a short while; we haven't seen any evidence of permanent burn-in in normal home use.

Good choice if you want a theater-like experience at home, with the largest picture available.

you want a theater-like experience at home, with the largest picture available.

Common screen sizes. The projector has a 9x12-inch or larger footprint. You need a separate screen (typically 70 to 200 inches diagonally).

The projector has a 9x12-inch or larger footprint. You need a separate screen (typically 70 to 200 inches diagonally).

Typical selling prices. $1,000 and up for a 1080p HD model, a bit less for a 720p projector; several hundred dollars to $1,000 for a screen, depending on size and type (fixed or retractable, manual or motorized, for example).

$1,000 and up for a 1080p HD model, a bit less for a 720p projector; several hundred dollars to $1,000 for a screen, depending on size and type (fixed or retractable, manual or motorized, for example).

Key points. You can get top picture quality from a projector, especially a 1080p model, and you're not locked into a specific screen size as you are with an LCD or plasma set. You can vary the picture size from about 50 to 200 inches by moving the projector closer to or farther away from a screen or wall and using the zoom control. To get TV programming, you must connect an external tuner, such as a cable or satellite box, to the projector. For movies, you can hook up a DVD or Blu-ray player. You generally have to provide an amplifier or A/V receiver and speakers, because most projectors don't have built-in audio capability.

You can get top picture quality from a projector, especially a 1080p model, and you're not locked into a specific screen size as you are with an LCD or plasma set. You can vary the picture size from about 50 to 200 inches by moving the projector closer to or farther away from a screen or wall and using the zoom control. To get TV programming, you must connect an external tuner, such as a cable or satellite box, to the projector. For movies, you can hook up a DVD or Blu-ray player. You generally have to provide an amplifier or A/V receiver and speakers, because most projectors don't have built-in audio capability.

While projectors are great for movie night, they aren't the best choice for typical, everyday viewing. Any light that falls on the screen reduces contrast and washes out the picture, so your best bet is a dark room. Use blackout window shades for daytime viewing, and at night, turn off light from nearby lamps.

The need to add a screen and speakers increases the cost and complexity of set-up. If you mount the projector, be sure to place it at the distance recommended by the manufacturer, angled to prevent the rectangular shape of the image from being distorted. Projectors with a vertical and/or horizontal lens shift give you more placement flexibility; those without a lens shift have to be mounted or placed so that their image is centered on the screen to avoid using the keystone adjustment, which can distort the picture.

In our tests, we used a 110-inch screen ($400) with a matte-white viewing surface 41/2 feet high by 8 feet wide. Screens with reflective finishes designed to enhance brightness (called gain) might have a narrower viewing angle than a matte screen. So-called dark screens are designed to enhance contrast by improving black levels, but they take a small hit in brightness. Freestanding screens can be stored when not in use; some wall- or ceiling-mounted screens can be manually or electronically retracted.

In general, LCD projectors haven't been as good as DLP models at reproducing true black, but some new LCD models do well. LCoS projectors are becoming more common, and some are outstanding, though typically a bit more expensive than other types. With a DLP front projector, you may experience the "rainbow effect," a flash of color some viewers notice mainly when they move their eyes across bright objects on a dark background. It isn't obvious to everyone, but once noticed, it can be annoying. Many newer DLP projectors use faster-spinning color wheels, which can reduce the effect. All DLP projectors using a single chip are affected. Only the most expensive DLP units with three chips don't have this issue. A projector's bulb typically needs replacement every 2,000 to 3,000 hours or so. We have no data on reliability of front projectors.

Features

Features can help to ensure your satisfaction with a TV long after you park it in your living room. Many features, such as the inputs and outputs, are common to all TV types, while some are relevant only to a particular type of TV; that's indicated below. Here are some of the more important TV features to consider.

3D is a new feature, not a new type of TV. 3D-capable sets function like any standard HDTV with regular programs. When the TV detects 3D signals, it shifts into 3D mode. You need to wear special high-tech glasses to see 3D images; without them, you'll see blurry double images. You don't need glasses for regular 2D content. There isn't much 3D content yet, but more is coming. As of July, there were a few 3D Blu-ray movies available, with more expected soon. (You'll need a 3D-capable Blu-ray player to play them.) There will also be a growing number of 3D broadcasts. For more information, see the

article on 3D.

.

This spec refers to the refresh rate or frame rate of the display--how often it updates the images onscreen. LCD TVs have typically had a refresh rate of 60Hz, meaning they update the image 60 times a second. At that relatively slow rate, there's a tendency to blur images during scenes with fast motion, such as sports programs. To address this, some new sets display double the number of frames per second--120 or 240 rather than the typical 60--by inserting additional video frames (or black frames). Because there is less time between frames, motion appears smoother. Another approach, taken by companies such as LG and Toshiba, is to combine 120Hz refresh rates with a scanning, or flashing, backlight to achieve a "240Hz like" effect. Many companies are giving this technology proprietary names; Sony, for example, calls it Motionflow and JVC's is dubbed Clear Motion Drive.

LCD displays use lights in the back of the display to illuminate the screen. These have typically been fluorescent bulbs, but many new sets use LED (light-emitting diode) backlights instead. Some have full-array LEDs arranged across the entire panel. These are divided into zones that can darken or brighten independently, a feature called local dimming. Thus the backlight can be dimmed behind a dark scene, enhancing black levels, while remaining bright in other parts of the picture. Other LCD TVs have LEDs around the perimeter of the screen, a design called edge-lit. This enables a very thin profile, but generally does not allow local dimming. A few new sets with edge-lit LEDs do have local dimming, but they haven't improved black levels as much as sets with full-array LEDs. In general, LEDs can reduce power consumption. Some of those we've tested have been among the most energy-efficient sets we've seen.

Some new LCD and plasma TVs can access the Internet directly, through a broadband connection, without using a computer. They don't function as full-fledged browsers; Web access is limited to specific content, which varies by brand and model. Some of these Internet-enabled TVs offer only simple RSS news feeds but others can bring you streaming video movies and TV episodes from Netflix, Blockbuster, Amazon on Demand, Vudu, and Hulu, and music from services such as Pandora, and access to popular sites such as YouTube, Twitter, Flickr photos, eBay, Facebook, and more. (Some Blu-ray players and gaming consoles also offer this feature, so you can get Internet connectivity and streaming video without buying a new TV. Most TVs with access to online content now have onscreen icons, called widgets, that are used to access the various services. Yahoo and Vudu offer a widget platform that aggregates content applications from various service providers, such as the streaming services mentioned above.

A small but growing number of TVs now have the ability to connect to a home network wirelessly, so you don't need a nearby Ethernet jack. Some models come with built-in Wi-Fi, while others come with, or offer as an option, a Wi-Fi dongle that connects to the TV's USB port.

One of the most critical considerations with any TV is the number and type of

inputs it has for hooking up devices to your TV. Most larger TVs now have at least three or four HDMI inputs plus two component-video inputs, which should be adequate for most current uses, while smaller sets typically have fewer of each type. Both types are capable of carrying high-definition signals from devices such as cable and satellite boxes and DVRs. You can use the RF (antenna/cable) input to feed high-def TV signals, either from an off-air antenna or from a cable hookup. S-video and composite-video inputs are generally used with older gear such as a VCR or sometimes a DVD player. If you want to hook up a videogame system or camcorder occasionally, look for a TV with front- or side-panel inputs, which are more accessible than those on the rear of the set. (See

it has for hooking up devices to your TV. Most larger TVs now have at least three or four HDMI inputs plus two component-video inputs, which should be adequate for most current uses, while smaller sets typically have fewer of each type. Both types are capable of carrying high-definition signals from devices such as cable and satellite boxes and DVRs. You can use the RF (antenna/cable) input to feed high-def TV signals, either from an off-air antenna or from a cable hookup. S-video and composite-video inputs are generally used with older gear such as a VCR or sometimes a DVD player. If you want to hook up a videogame system or camcorder occasionally, look for a TV with front- or side-panel inputs, which are more accessible than those on the rear of the set. (See

Video Connections for more information.) A handful of sets, typically high-priced models, can accept "wireless HDMI" signals. These TVs come with a separate media module, where all connections--such as from a cable box or Blu-ray player--are made. Audio and video signals are then sent wirelessly from the media console to the TV, leaving the power cord as the only remaining cable. There are several different technologies being used, including WHDI, WirelessHD (WiHD), Ultra Wide-Band (UWB), and even 802.11n, also known as Wi-Fi.

for more information.) A handful of sets, typically high-priced models, can accept "wireless HDMI" signals. These TVs come with a separate media module, where all connections--such as from a cable box or Blu-ray player--are made. Audio and video signals are then sent wirelessly from the media console to the TV, leaving the power cord as the only remaining cable. There are several different technologies being used, including WHDI, WirelessHD (WiHD), Ultra Wide-Band (UWB), and even 802.11n, also known as Wi-Fi.

Most widescreen (16:9) sets have

stretch and zoom modes that expand or compress an image to fill the screen better. That helps to reduce or eliminate the dark bands that can appear on the sides or top and bottom of images if you watch content that isn't formatted for a wide screen, including most standard-definition TV programs and even some HD content. The tradeoff is that the picture is distorted or cut off a bit in the process of being stretched or zoomed. A mode called "native," or 1:1, which is found on many but not all TVs, presents the full image, without cutting off the edges. This is especially helpful when using the TV as a computer display.

modes that expand or compress an image to fill the screen better. That helps to reduce or eliminate the dark bands that can appear on the sides or top and bottom of images if you watch content that isn't formatted for a wide screen, including most standard-definition TV programs and even some HD content. The tradeoff is that the picture is distorted or cut off a bit in the process of being stretched or zoomed. A mode called "native," or 1:1, which is found on many but not all TVs, presents the full image, without cutting off the edges. This is especially helpful when using the TV as a computer display.

This improves the appearance of movies converted from film to video. That includes most theatrical releases on DVD, many movies shown on TV, and some TV programs. This feature (also called 3:2 pull-down, motion compensation, or brand-specific names such as CineMotion and Film Mode) helps to compensate for the difference in frame rates between film (24 frames per second) and video (30 frames per second), which can create jerkiness and jagged edges on moving images. Most TVs and progressive-scan DVD players also have a film-mode feature, so experiment to see which device does the best job of making the images look smoother.

The Digital Living Network Alliance (DLNA) supports a standard that enables interoperability among various consumer electronics devices across a home network. A DLNA-compliant TV, for example, can access photos, movies, and music stored on a PC through a network connection.

All TVs have menus with settings that enable you to adjust the picture, sound, and more. We suggest adjusting the TV's settings once you get home to get the best viewing experience. Newer sets have a menu option that allows you to choose between a "home" or "retail" ("store") setting) when the TV is first connected. The home mode adjusts the TVs picture controls to settings appropriate for viewing in a home environment. You can also choose from other pre-set picture modes that are optimized for certain types of content (such as movies, sports, or games), and make adjustments to individual attributes, such as brightness, color, and so forth. (With some sets, you can adjust attriburtes individually only in a custom or user mode.) With more sources for video available all the time, it's handy to have a feature that allows you to customize settings for each input, such as the one you routinely use for your cable box or the DVD player. For example, you might want sharpness set to its lowest level when watching high-quality DVDs or Blu-ray movies routed through the HDMI input, but a higher sharpness setting to improve the softer appearance of standard-definition programs coming in by cable through the component-video input. (For more information, see

Fine-tuning your HDTV.)

.)

Available on a small number of TVs and DVRs, a CableCard slot lets you use a card, rented to you by the cable company for a few dollars a month, instead of a cable box. When the card is inserted, the TV can receive scrambled digital-cable content, including high-definition programming. That eliminates the need for an extra piece of equipment and cables, but there is a downside: Most current CableCards are one-way, so they don't provide an interactive program guide or video-on-demand, and pay-per-view ordering via the remote control. Tru2Way two-way cable cards are starting to show up on a few sets, but are supported by cable companies only in a limited number of markets.

This lets you watch two channels at once--one in a small window, the other as a full-screen image. It's useful if you want to browse the onscreen guide while keeping an eye on the program you're watching or keep track of a sports event while another program is playing. A single-tuner TV requires another device, such as a DVD recorder, DVR or cable box, to display two programs at once; dual-tuner TV models are able to display two programs simultaneously on their own. On some TVs, PIP is disabled when the HDMI input is used.

Some remotes use either backlighted keys or glow-in-the dark keys to make it easier to use in a darkened room. Backlighting is preferred because glow-in-the-dark keys fade quickly. In some cases, only a few of the most-used keys are illuminated.

On most TVs, speakers are built-in at the bottom of a TV, along the sides, or occasionally on the rear of the set. Some models have detachable speakers, allowing you to remove them and place them elsewhere. The location of the speakers can affect the width of the set and could determine whether it will fit into a niche in an entertainment center. A recent trend with flat-panel TVs has been toward "invisible" speakers that are integrated within the screen bezel and barely visible to the eye. Some TVs have audio outputs that will allow you to connect external speakers or a powered subwoofer. Monitors, which don't include an ATSC tuner, may not have speakers. Front projectors generally don't include speakers. either.

Like old-fashioned picture-tube TVs, which have reflective glass screens, most plasma TVs have shiny screens that show reflections from windows and lamps when their light falls directly on the screen. A growing number of LCD TVs have shiny screens too, so they're subject to the same glare. If you weren't bothered by reflections on a tube set, this shouldn't be a major issue for you. Some plasma sets have screens with anti-glare surfaces, which can help to reduce reflectivity. Otherwise you can close window blinds or dim lighting to minimize any glare issues.

Many plasma TVs now come with features to prevent burn-in, such as screensavers and motion-adaptive (also called pixel-shifting) technology, which shifts the picture almost imperceptibly every few seconds. This helps prevent static images such as a station logo or the bars on the sides of an image from permanently etching into the TV's phosphor coating, leaving faint but persistent, ghostlike images on the screen. Burn-in might have been more of a problem with earlier plasma sets. We haven't seen any evidence of burn-in when testing TVs in our labs over the course of a few months, and we have heard no anecdotal reports of permanent burn-in from staffers or readers who have used plasma TVs long-term at home. Temporary image sticking is more likely to occur. In this case, static images that remain on the screen for a matter of hours--or on a few sets we've seen, in minutes--may leave a subtle impression that's noticeable on a dark screen, though hard to detect with typical video. These impressions disappear when you play random video scenes. Some models include a feature that essentially blasts the screen with a white image for a period of time to remove lingering images.

Front projectors, which project an image onto a screen or wall, have some unique features. One, called keystone correction, helps the image retain its proper geometry when you tilt the projector up or down to raise or lower the image on the screen. Though this can help you center the image, tilting the projector can cause the sides of the image to angle away from 90 degrees, resulting in keystoning, or an image that looks like a trapezoid rather than a rectangle. Most projectors have some form of keystone correction--vertical, horizontal, or both--that can correct for this distortion. But using this feature can cause resolution to suffer, depending on the amount of correction applied to the image.

To avoid having to use a keystone adjustment, many projectors include an optical lens-shift mechanism, which lets you move the image horizontally or vertically without tilting the projector so you can get a straight, geometrically correct picture even if the projector can't be centered directly in front of the screen. Some projectors have a vertical lens shift, others have vertical and horizontal lens shift, and still others--primarily lower-cost DLP models--don't have lens shift, which can make projector placement more difficult.

To help improve the depth of black levels, many projectors include a manual or dynamic iris, which acts as a brightness adjustment by varying (typically reducing) the amount of light sent to the lens. While a manual iris lets you reduce overall light output to improve black-level performance, it applies that light reduction across the entire picture, so whites won't be quite as bright. A dynamic iris, which is controlled by a motor, has circuitry that closes the iris during darker scenes and opens it up again for brighter scenes, effectively boosting contrast. It must be able to react accurately and quickly or the process will be noticeable, an effect known as "breathing," in which you become aware that the feature is active as you see the image brightening and dimming on scenes.